Podróże małe i duże > Moje odkrycie Ameryki (Peru – Boliwia – Chile)

The Bolivian Pampa, walking on air

Wreszcie nie trzesieCalle G. Busch

At last, we are standing firmly on the ground! I’ve already forgotten how it is when the bus doesn’t bump all the time! It was the worst journey in my entire life... We’re going to an office and, again, we end up in a jeep immediately! They don’t have a heart! My behind hasn’t yet recovered and it’s another 3 hours till we reach Santa Rosa!

Witamy na pampieTzw. drogaKonnoTzw. drogaWstęp tylko z czystymi zębami

It’s no use talking, the road is very similar to the previous one and the jeep is even less comfortable than the bus! We pass the cars which got stuck in the ‘road’, then a barrier (60B for the entry) and finally we reach Santa Rosa. Here the road has its end, so does the civilisation. We brush our teeth and get into a cramped, engine-propelled boat. A thwart is may seem hard... but, at least, there are no potholes in the river! Blissfulness! My bottom takes a rest, the sun is shining, spectacular views... Cloud nine!

SzczepanNikePampaW objęciachA wy tu czego?
Nasza gwiazdaSunset bar

I don’t bother here with time so I can’t say how long it took us to reach our accommodation for the night. We leave our stuff and sail to watch the sunset. As soon as the sun disappeared behind the horizon, mosquitoes started to bite mercilessly! Insect repellent doesn’t work to well; fortunately I’m wearing long trousers, long sleeves and some mosquito net on my face. Surely it’s not quite comfortable because it’s hot, but I think being eaten alive by mosquitoes isn’t better.

When we reach our destination we meet Juliette; and to be precise, she makes acquaintance with us and asks if we’re Poles. It turned out that her parents are diplomats and she spent most of her life in Chile. She speaks with distinct accent and she pronounces the word Ćhile so softly that you can fall in love. We have to run under the mosquito net! Buenas Noches.

PampaKsiężyc nad pampaJuliette - Polka z Chile
* * * * *

We get up at dawn to set eyes on the sunrise! I must admit that it’s worth getting up so early. Then we go back to a camp for breakfast. It’s delicious, as every meal here! To our surprise, even a caiman that lives with us is pleased! There’s nothing to be afraid of, Ricardo (that’s his name) is a vegetarian... maybe not so ardent one because he will have some hamburger once in a while; nevertheless he certainly prefers Italian cuisine! Just take a look what a cosset! Almost like a kitten only a green one...

Wschód słońca na pampieWschód słońca na pampie
Ricardo - gwiazda wybiegówGrzeczny RicardoRicardo wegetarianinPampaRobak
Kąpiel z delfinami (jak byście nie zauważyli to delfin w lewym-górnym rogu)Kąpiel z delfinamiDoktor

After breakfast, we are sailing to reach a place where our guide expects to see an anaconda. I don’t know exactly why bother so much... after an hour of wallowing in swamps, about one thousand bites, not to mention heat and dampness, we go back to the boat. No, we didn’t see any anaconda. After the journey, a revitalising bath in a river with dolphins.

After dinner, I lie down on a hammock, birds are singing wonderfully and it’s so nice that I even don’t know when I fall asleep... That’s what I call holidays! BLISSFULNESS! After an hour and a half of dozing, we set sail again to reach a site where we swim with the dolphins that are frequently seen here. Heavenly spot, I highly recommend it! SEVENTH HEAVEN!

RobakJa w hamaku, czyli błogość
Przyjaciele z IRAPtaszekPtaszekDrzewoPampa
Sunset BarSunset Bar

In the evening we sail to a Sunset Bar; as the name suggests we sail to have some beer and watch the sunset. And since the sunset is beautiful, we drink two beers and have the third one as a takeaway. On our way, as a result to our fertile imagination, we begin to sing sea shanties and other tunes. We’re accompanied by our Irish friend. He swears like a trooper: fucking british, fucking anything, but he utters these words in so cool manner that it’s pleasing to the ear! Three cheers for free Ireland! And this is how the Pampa looks like after three beers...

Sunset BarZachód słońcaZachód słońcaNoc na pampie
* * * * *
Ricardo i DoktorRicardoSzczepanPampa
WitekWelcome Indigena Tours

In the morning we have delicious breakfast (Ricardo as well, of course) and then we sail the river for the last time. After dinner we go back to Santa Rosa. How did you like the Pampa? I assure you that in reality it looks even more beautiful than in the pictures!

PampaLuisŻółwSanta RosaSanta Rosa

In Santa Rosa we are waiting for our jeep. We are waiting… Szczepan finds a great toy; just take a look how he suffers when he has to give it back to a Doctor! If I were an Indian, I would think that there are no bikes in Poland! Nearby, a very solid building is being erected; probably it will be a hotel or something else designed for tourists.

Doktor i RobakSzczepan walczy o przetrwanieDoktor i Szczepan
Szczepan na swym dzielnym rumakuDoktor i Szczepan - pierwsza krewDoktor

Finally, our knight-errants set off to fight to the death! Surely one of the daredevils would’ve died since the duel was fierce indeed! But gods had mercy and sent down the rain upon their feverish heads! The battle ended in a draw.

Back then we didn’t realise what such rain means when it comes to a Bolivian road. This time, a Santa Rosa – Rurrenabaque stretch took us... 8,5 hours! We didn’t reach our destination until 11:30 p.m.!! On the way, a jeep that was going in front of us got stuck in mud and we helped to pull it out. We pushed standing knee-deep in mud! You can just imagine how we looked like afterwards. Swarms of mosquitoes were already waiting for us in the jeep; the roof of the car was literally black! There wasn’t even a point in killing them! And on top of that, poor bottom… All inclusive.

Jedna jaskółka wiosny nie czyni...Santa Rosa
Witold Wieszczek – the one who was swimming with dolphins.
Translated by Kamil Razowski.
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